Installation of radiators: design features, installation of
In this article we will talk about how to independently perform the installation of radiators using the available tools and consumables. That is, we will not focus on the wiring diagrams, since there are relevant articles on our portal for this, and consider in detail how to install batteries of various modifications.
Induction training
The topic of the article provides considerable interest as the price of services of professional plumbers is high, whereas with carrying out dismantling works you will surely manage yourself and save your money in this way.
Before we consider the current methods of installation of radiators, we will talk about the design features of these devices that should be considered during installation.
Construction features
All heating batteries, regardless of the production materials used in their manufacture, as well as, regardless of size and configuration, have an inlet and outlet. In most devices on sale, these holes are duplicated to allow both the top and bottom connection.
During installation, part of the technological holes remains unused. In order to ensure the tightness of the device, special plugs are used, which are screwed into the technological holes.
The standard equipment of the heater is not equipped with the required plugs and fittings (connecting elements for mating with the pipeline). Therefore, an additional order will be required to purchase a special kit for mounting radiators.
As a rule, these kits are standard and suitable for side or cross connection. But there are batteries designed for the lower inlet pipe of the inlet and exhaust pipes. In this case, in addition to the main installation kit, you will have to purchase a special assembly for connection to closely fitted connections.
Another important feature of the device of heating devices with a circulating coolant is the possibility of wall or floor installation. In this and in another case, you will need to purchase special mounting hardware - brackets, modifications of which we will consider in the description of the installation work.
Installation of cast iron radiators
Cast iron structures are the optimal solution for installation in centralized systems and in autonomous systems of gravity type constructed using boilers with an external expansion tank. The installation scheme of heating radiators made of cast iron, depends on the type of pipe liner, through which the coolant will be supplied and the water that has left the temperature will go.
Consider, what is the installation instruction of the most common "three-finger" cast iron radiator.
Three-finger it is popularly called, since three fingers fit into the gap between the sections.
- At the initial stage, mark up the place where the installation will be carried out.. Traditionally, this place is the area under the window. The choice of this place is not accidental, since it allows to achieve optimal convection (circulation of warm and cold air) within the framework of a heated room. We measure the window sill and determine its center. Next, measure the length of the device to be installed, determine its center and mark the length on the wall, aligning the centers.
- Draw a horizontal line that will correspond to the top line of the battery. This line should be located strictly horizontally, which can be determined using the water level.
Important: If the batteries are installed with a slope, there is a high probability that air plugs will form in separate sections.
- Draw vertical lines that will correspond to the center of the gaps between the outermost sections..
As a rule, 4 brackets are enough to install the device - two at the bottom and two at the top. But, if the wall is old or the battery consists of 12 or more sections, instead of the standard 4 attachment points, 6 brackets can be used. Intermediate mounting their own hands set in the gap between the two central sections.
- Using the pin brackets we mark the center of the hole 2-3 mm above the centers of the upper and lower inlet holes.
- Drill the holes with a drill of the appropriate diameter (12 mm) to the depth of the plastic seal.
- The plastic seals insert the holes and hammer them in until they are flush with the surface of the wall.
- Screw brackets.
- Grinder trim the pipe to the desired length.
- Hang the radiator. If installed correctly, the device will fall on all brackets and will not swing when pressed.
- At the next stage, installation of cast iron radiators to pipes is performed. In technological holes, using tow or fum-tape, we twist the locking mechanisms to which we attach the initially cut to the desired length of the pipe. To do this, the ends of the pipes are treated with dies, cutting the thread, the pitch and dimensions of which correspond to the thread of the stop valves.
Tip: If the connection is made using tow, we coat the upper part of the joint with oil paint. After the paint has dried, the compound will be more hydrophobic.
After installation, the coolant is poured into the system and the degree of tightness of the connections is checked. If leaks are observed or the heater is installed incorrectly, it may be necessary to remove cast iron radiators.
Bracket Types
- Adjustable steel fasteners, cast iron holders, fasteners on the steel strip and slipway bolt fasteners up to 30 cm long are used for cast iron batteries.
- For aluminum and bimetallic batteries, you can use reinforced steel fasteners or steel pin brackets with dowels up to 17 cm in length.
Features of installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries
Along with cast iron batteries, bimetallic and solid aluminum modifications are widely represented on the market. Consider how to install a heating radiator in the apartment, provided that it is made of aluminum or aluminum in combination with steel.
Important: If you need to increase the bimetallic or aluminum battery or, on the contrary, shorten it by changing the number of sections, you will need a special radiator key. This key is alternately inserted into the lower and upper inlet and allows you to disassemble a single product into several separate parts or conversely assemble several sections together.
After the required number of sections are put together, we install the fittings. For these purposes, we use a universal assembly kit for radiators, consisting of bushing nuts and plugs. Screw-through nuts are screwed into those holes where the pipes will be connected, and the plugs are screwed into the remaining two holes.
Important: When installing fittings we use a fum-tape, which we wind in a clockwise direction. If the winding is performed counterclockwise, when unscrewing the feedthrough plug, the sealant will doubt and will not provide adequate tightness.
Marking the position of the device is the same as when mounting cast iron batteries. But there is one thing that needs to be considered. The gap between the aluminum sections is an order of magnitude narrower than between the cast-iron sections, so the location of the brackets needs to be determined with particular accuracy.
If the installation is done by means of metal-plastic pipes, then the radiator is first hung, and then the pipes are cut and connected. If, instead of the metal-based laminate, more durable and durable polypropylene is used, first we perform cutting and soldering of pipes, and only after that we put the battery and make the connection.
Important: Some heaters and pipes may be incompatible, as they form a galvanic couple, which contributes to the development of corrosive processes. For example, a combination of steel pipes and aluminum is not recommended. At the same time, polypropylene pipes are a universal solution for all types of batteries.
Conclusion
From the above, we can draw the following conclusion. In order to perform the installation or disassembly of a heating radiator it is not necessary to be a professional. It is enough to carefully do all the steps listed above, and you will certainly achieve the desired result.
In order to install the radiator was easier, we recommend to watch the video in this article.