Installation of radiators with their own hands: types of

For heating your home or apartment, you can provide different ways, but in this case we are interested in installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands, or similar heaters from another metal. We will try to tell you not just how to hang and fasten the batteries to the pipes, but about the circuits themselves, their advantages and disadvantages, and you will also learn about some of the nuances necessary to make it possible to operate efficiently, with maximum efficiency.

All of this you will learn below in the text, and in addition, you can watch the thematic demonstration of the video in this article.

Radiator heating

In order to carry out the installation of steel radiators with their own hands or analogs of any other metal, you need a source of heating, which are different boilers.

They can be gas, electric, diesel, solid fuel, as well as universal, that is, having the opportunity to work in different modes. In addition, each of these types of boilers is divided into subspecies, for example, a gas boiler can be convection (traditional) or condensation (low-temperature).

Types of contours

• In both autonomous and centralized heating systems, you can find a one-pipe connection system, the diagram of which you see in the upper image. The essence of the work here is as follows - the coolant from the boiler is fed through a looped pipe, which is both a flow circuit and a return loop. On the way to it, with the help of smaller pipes radiators crash, it turns out that the water, having passed through this heater, returns back to the pipe.

• The main problem of such a connection system is that the coolant, passing through the battery, loses its original temperature and returns to the pipe already somewhat cooled. and the more heaters embedded in one circuit, the colder the water will be at its end, therefore, the instruction does not recommend using more than three or four pieces per wing.
• In order to somehow compensate for heat loss, a bypass is installed in front of the radiator between the feed and return - a pipe connecting this feed and return, as shown in the top photo, but fundamentally this fixture cannot solve the problem. A single-pipe heating system is much more economical than a two-pipe heating system, since less water is being heated here, therefore, the energy consumption of the boiler decreases.

• A two-pipe heating system requires heating a larger amount of coolant., since there are two circuits involved - for supply and return of coolant. But the installation of cast-iron radiators with their own hands or their analogues can be made with virtually no heat loss, depending on the distance of the battery from the boiler.
• The thing is that such a system provides for the supply of hot water through a single pipe, without returning cold water to it. - the cooled coolant is discharged into the return pipe ("return pipe"), so it does not cool down to the very last radiator through which the entire system is looped. The two-pipe scheme is very reliable and convenient, although it provides for a certain waste of materials and heating of additional water.

• And here is another schematic diagram - here you can see how to make installation of biometric radiators with your own hands together with a heated floor system from a single heating source. (boiler on a certain fuel). The problem of assembling such a circuit is that for radiators the temperature of the coolant is usually needed about twice as much as for a water-heated floor, and the boiler produces a fluid with only one temperature. Therefore, in such cases a three-way thermostatic valve is used, which, in the diagram, is placed on the pump unit.
• Note that the system here is a two-pipe and coolant through the supply pipe gets with one temperature and to the batteries and to the warm floor. But before the floor contour, it passes through a three-way thermostatic valve and when the floor reaches the required heating, the valve closes and hot water is discharged into the return pipe (this is well shown in the diagram).

Thus, you can use, for example, not a low-temperature (condensation), but a traditional (convection) boiler (its price is much lower) in the 70? C mode, but the floor will heat up to 30? C or any other thermostat mounted temperature

Installation of radiators

If the battery is mounted, and not floor-mounted, then for its fixation on the wall various adjustable and non-adjustable brackets are used - the installation accuracy of the heater and its compatibility with the heating circuit fittings depend on their installation.

Therefore, before drilling the holes for the brackets, you need not only to arrange the holes on a strictly horizontal level, but also to take into account the bend of the holder, since the battery, sitting on it, will fall a little lower (it all depends on the steepness of the arc on the holder).

Before each radiator, on the supply and return pipe it is necessary to install shut-off valves (ball or cone valves) in order to be able, if necessary, to remove the device during the heating season without discharging water.

Screw the Mayevsky tap into one of the upper free radiator connection inputs, as in the photo above, so that you can blow air from any battery or system without having to drain the water (the savings are obvious).

When installing batteries to a steel contour, use tow, and for a propylene contour with the same fittings, it is best to use fum-tape to seal, but in one and in the other case use Unipack sanitary paste - it seals the threaded connection very well.

Note. If you have an autonomous heating system, then you should not use cast iron radiators, as they heat up for a long time and they need a lot of water. Such devices are good for centralized systems.

Conclusion

Do not forget that the installation of an aluminum radiator always implies the use of anti-corrosion additives in the system. Consequently, the use of aluminum is advisable only in autonomous systems, where you fill the coolant yourself.