Tee for sewage: the choice of material, the method of

Tee - one of the most popular types of fashonin. On sale you can find products for the sewage of cast iron from several types of plastic. Which of them to choose?

And most importantly - how is the replacement of the sewer tee? Let's figure it out.

Material selection

So, it is given: the tee connecting the sewer riser with your internal wiring, cracked or rotten. It needs to be replaced. What is the best choice?

To begin, let us examine what we have to choose from.

• The main advantage of cast iron - exceptional mechanical strength. He is only afraid of shock loads; compressive or tensile stress will not warp or chip. Lifetime can be estimated at 25 years or more.
• Polyvinyl chloride is the most popular material.. 80 - 90% of plastic sewage is currently produced from it. Service life is at least 50 years; the material is moderately plastic, afraid of shocks and splits under considerable loads.
• Polypropylene is somewhat lighter than PVC; while it has greater rigidity, thermal and wear resistance. Service life does not differ from polyvinyl chloride.

Pay attention: on sale it is possible to meet the so-called silent plastic sewerage. It has a multi-layer structure and increased thickness. If the cast-iron riser, perfectly silencing sound, opens with a plastic tee - it is better to stop on the silent tee.

How does the current cost of materials compare? Yes, the difference in the cost of fashions in any case will not cause damage to the family budget, but it is still interesting to relate the costs in each of the cases.

What we need to replace will serve as the one we are examining - a straight tee with all taps with a diameter of 110 mm.

The notorious multilayer structure and increased wall thickness can increase the cost of plastic fasion in 1.2 - 1.5 times.

And now let's think about the choice.

It seems to be strength - an undoubted advantage, for which you can overpay a couple of hundred rubles.

Only here the strength of the tee will be in demand only when the site of the riser above it subsides. Actually, it is this drawdown that most often leads to a tee crack.

Note: in this case, cast iron fashonina will not prevent subsidence, it will not just give the mass of the riser to quickly split it.

If so, we prefer lightweight, cheap and durable plastic. Which one - PVC or PP - is a matter of solely personal preference. As we have already found out, the performance of plastics in our case is almost the same.

Replacement

It seems that the sewage system installed under the bathroom - a 50-50-50 tee, through which the drains from the bathtub or the washbasin are removed - will not require any special skills to be replaced. Focusing on how to replace the tee in the riser with your own hands.

We will need:

• Actually tee.
• Compensating pipe of the same diameter.
• Rubber cuff - an adapter from a pig-iron bell on a plastic pipe.

Lifting and fixing the riser

You should start with a reliable fixation of the pipe above the sewer tee.

Otherwise, its sagging after dismantling a part of the riser will lead to a leak from the ceiling or collapse of the seal of the mounting hole.

1. Shut off the water on the riser and warn neighbors about the upcoming work.
2. Remove the toilet and disconnect the comb (internal sewers).

1. At a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor we drill in the wall behind the riser, as close as possible to it, the hole with a drill with a diameter of 9.5 mm.
2. We drive into it a piece of 10-millimeter smooth reinforcement.
3. We shrink the strut with thick wire a couple of centimeters below the reinforcement. The improvised clamp should not slip through the pipe.
4. We impose one more similar clamp directly above the tee and with the help of a lever (scrap or pipe) lift the pipe by this clamp to the stop.
5. Securely attract the upper clamp to the valve.

Dismantling

1. We beat off the concrete seal with a chisel or perforator, freeing the tee and the socket under it.

Warning: pieces of concrete that have fallen into the riser can cause sewer blockage.

1. Using a lightweight screwdriver, we remove the cement seal from the socket of the tee and, if possible, the cabol.
2. Cut the riser at a distance slightly longer than the compensating pipe from the socket under the tee. Make another cut 10 cm below and remove a piece of pipe.
3. Turning the tee by hand or with a gas key, remove it and clean the socket under it.

Installation

What is the actual replacement of the iron sewer tee to a plastic one?

1. The riser above the cut for the length of the compensator socket is cleared of paint and debris.
2. Directly under the cut is installed the clamp - the usual, plastic, from the store. He will keep the compensator from offset.
3. The compensating pipe is tensioned to the cleaned section of the pipe. As a lubricant, you can use regular or liquid soap.
4. The tee is inserted into the bell of the riser by means of a rubber cuff.

1. The compensator is driven into the upper bell of the tee and fixed with a clamp. Instructions for further action is to re-install the toilet and connect the comb.

Conclusion

The author will allow himself to mischievously notice that the main problem of the work described is the very limited consciousness of the neighbors above. Since the dismantling of the riser, it is better to keep a large basin at hand, which at least partly protects you from splashing drains.

As usual, in the video in this article, the reader will be able to find additional thematic information.

Successes!