Installing a bath on the bricks
The standard legs are provided in the design of each metal bath, on which it can be easily installed. The increased humidity of the room provokes rapid corrosion of the metal, so after a while they lose their original strength. The process of operating the bath leads to loosening and deformation of the fastener, due to which the structure loses its stability. The reel of the bath, in turn, contributes to the formation of cracks between it by the wall, moisture begins to fall into them - the decoration of the room deteriorates. The plumbing fixture can change the angle of inclination, and the water will stop completely draining into the sewer. A reliable alternative to rusting legs will be installing a bath on bricks. The strong basis will not lose the qualities under the influence of the adverse environment and will provide a qualitative support for many years.
Preparation for the placement of sanitary equipment
Installation of the bath on the rack of bricks is considered the easiest, affordable and reliable way that is suitable for any material: steel, acrylic or cast iron. Laying the foundation of the brick can be your own hands, help is needed only when installing a heavy cast-iron tank.
For thin-walled and long steel baths, it is enough to build three rows of brick racks.
Before starting work, draws a drawing of the placement of the bath in the room, this will allow to correctly mark the placement of supports. Places for future supports are marked on the floor with chalk. The height of the side of the bath should be 60–70 cm, so the rear stand rises by 19 cm. In order for the tilt to appear, the size of the front stand is reduced to 17 cm. Such a difference in the height of the racks will provide the necessary slope for draining water. If you folded supports of the same size, under the bottom of the bath from the side that is farther from the drain, enclose the seal. The distance between the supports will be approximately 50 cm - this is the optimal distance to create a solid base.
To work will require:
- level;
- perforator;
- Master OK;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- Bulgarian.
Noise insulation
A significant drawback of the metal bath is the increased noise level when typing water. To solve the problem, before installing the tank, turn it over to the side and apply polyurethane foam or plastic gerlen. This layer will compensate for the thermal expansion of steel, reduce heat loss and noise.
Masonry supports
The material for the racks will be red brick. A simple cement-sand mixture, mixed in a ratio of 1: 4 with the addition of water, is used as a mortar bonding a building material. For laying you will need 20 pieces of solid brick, a few more halves for laying along the edges. Stages are located across the bowl, their height is 2-3 bricks. After removing the racks, they are left to dry for a day. If you hurry with the installation of heavy construction, then wet supports will not withstand the load.
For acrylic and steel baths, which have a small weight, it is better to perform not just supports under the bottom, but to complement them with columns that support the sides of the container. In this case, the bricks should not protrude beyond the plane of the edges of the bowl. Capacity of acrylic has the lowest strength to avoid deflection of the bottom, the base under it do not in the form of two pillars, but as a continuous podium.
The question remains, how to fix the bath to the wall? Align the bath level, for reliable fixation on its sides and the sides is applied tile adhesive. The same composition covers the surface of the walls. Bath tightly pressed to them and secured throughout the treated area. A layer of glue will become a sealant and securely fix the container on the wall.
Joints for reliability processed sealant. For a strong junction, a special plastic baseboard can be stuck.
Siphon installation
Before the final installation of the sanitary device on the erected base, it is necessary to fix the siphon, otherwise it will be more difficult in a narrow space. To do this, a lattice with a gasket is placed in the drain hole from the inside, and an exhaust gasket is pressed from the outside. The design is connected with a screw. A special tap is connected to the overflow port. The outlet pipe is connected to the siphon, and the one through a corrugated hose with sewage.
Finishing work
After installing the bath, it is necessary to ground the steel tank. Provide a special wire that fits in the designated place. A simple procedure will avoid dangerous accidents involving faulty wiring.
To disguise brick racks, waterproof gypsum board is used in combination with ceramic tiles or a screen that has a door that provides access to the siphon.
After connecting the siphon and sewer check the tightness of seals and joints. To do this, take a little water in the bath, and then open the cork. If installation is carried out correctly, moisture will not leak anywhere.
Video
See how to install the bath on the bricks: